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Niacin vs Niacinamide: What’s the Difference for Skin?

Niacin (nicotinic acid) and niacinamide (nicotinamide) are both forms of vitamin B3. On the skin, niacinamide is the useful one: it helps the skin barrier, calms redness, reduces oiliness and evens tone, and most skin types tolerate it well. Niacin tablets are a medicine with side effects such as flushing, and are not a skincare treatment.

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In the skin

How a moisturiser helps the barrier

Illustration, not to scale. Layers from top: outer skin (epidermis), dermis, fat.

Niacin and niacinamide sound almost the same, and both are vitamin B3. On the skin, though, they behave very differently.

Two forms of vitamin B3

  • Niacin (nicotinic acid) is used as a medicine, in tablets, mainly for cholesterol under a doctor’s care. It commonly causes flushing: warmth, redness and itching of the face and body. It is not used in skincare for that reason.
  • Niacinamide (nicotinamide) is the form used in skincare. It does not cause flushing and is gentle enough for most skin types.

Both forms are found in food: meat, fish, eggs, dairy, whole grains, legumes and nuts. A normal diet provides enough for most people.

What niacinamide does for skin

  • Supports the skin barrier: helps the skin make its own ceramides, so it holds moisture better.
  • Calms redness and irritation.
  • Reduces oiliness and the look of enlarged pores.
  • Evens tone: reduces the transfer of pigment to the skin surface, helping dark spots and marks fade gradually.
  • Modest improvement in fine lines and texture over time.

How to use it

  • A serum or moisturiser with 2 to 5 per cent niacinamide, once or twice daily.
  • It works well alongside sunscreen, retinoids, vitamin C and acne treatments, which makes it a useful “team player”.
  • Give it eight to twelve weeks.
  • Stop if you notice stinging or a rash; higher strengths irritate some people.

Niacinamide tablets?

Oral nicotinamide is used by dermatologists in specific situations, for example to help reduce the risk of some skin cancers in high-risk people, and occasionally for certain inflammatory conditions. It should be taken only on medical advice.

The bottom line

For skincare, look for niacinamide. Niacin tablets are a medicine with different uses and side effects. If you want help building a routine for pigmentation, oiliness or sensitive skin, a dermatologist can suggest what to combine niacinamide with. See our skincare basics.

Quick answers

What strength of niacinamide should I use?

Most studies use 2 to 5 per cent. Higher strengths are sold, but they are not clearly better and are more likely to irritate.

Can niacinamide be used with vitamin C?

Yes. The old advice to keep them apart is outdated for modern formulations. If your skin is sensitive, use one in the morning and the other at night.

Does niacinamide help acne?

It can help reduce oiliness and redness and is a good gentle add-on, but moderate acne usually needs prescription treatment.

References

  1. Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Gehring W. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2004

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By appointment Dr. Smit Thakkar

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